Goodbye to Vancouver, again

Vancouver skyline, highway, and SkyTrain tracks

My eighteen days in Vancouver were full of wonderful times with family, friends, and Emily. It was certainly worth spending the time on the bus for. As stated before, Vancouver puts Ottawa to shame as a city. It has so much more happening, not just because of the Olympics but because of the size, the location, and the fact that it is a city that has to pull for itself, whereas Ottawa exists to try to organize all the rest. Vancouver is certainly not without problems, but the degree to which it is alive and interesting more than makes up for it in my mind. I will be leaving the city with a lengthy list of appealing activities and places left undone and unvisited, for lack of time.

Given the need to mitigate climate change, I don’t know how often I will be able to visit Vancouver, going forward. While effecting political change is far more important than minimizing our personal emissions, doing the latter does seem necessary for retaining credibility while trying to do the former. That said, it certainly rankles a bit to see people flying halfway across the world for a sunny weekend, while you agonize about whether and how to go see your home city for the first time in two years. An ironic consequence of trying to behave ethically in relation to future generations is that other people raise their expectations of you, without necessarily adopting higher ones for themselves.

My thanks to everyone who helped to make this visit so special and worthwhile. This visit will certainly be a significant data point, while I am trying to solve the puzzle of where and how to spend the next few decades.

Vancouver update, and travel options

Laurier Avenue Bridge, Ottawa

The last few days of Vancouver downtime have been really enjoyable. It is impossible to disentangle the extent to which the enjoyment is the product of broader and deeper networks of friends here, and the extent to which it arises from characteristics essential to the city.

Tristan is on his way back to Ontario via train. While it seems to be a significantly more carbon-intensive way to travel, it is undeniably infinitely more interesting looking than the bus. He has already provided good photographic evidence of that. In my experience, the bus trip offers virtually nothing worth photographing during short winter days. Perhaps one day we will have low-carbon trains, and thus a way of going cross-country that is both environmentally responsible and tolerably pleasant and interesting.

I have been reading an excellent book and play: Tom Stoppard’s wonderful Arcadia (combining amusing talk of sex and science) and Bill Streever’s Cold: Adventures in the World’s Frozen Places. The latter offers an astonishing contrast between stories of success and failure in extreme cold: caterpillars that freeze every winter and take ten years to achieve metamorphosis, versus the final journal entries of doomed expeditions, documenting how the men died one at a time.

Less than four more days, and I will be back on the bus.

Ah, Vancouver

The degree to which Vancouver is preferable to Ottawa can hardly be overstated. This ocean city is beautiful, green, and almost infinitely more dynamic than the snowbound bureaucracy out east. Whereas it is a challenge to find anywhere novel to go in Ottawa, Vancouver has a multitude of interesting areas, with the bonus that you don’t need to shiver in your long underwear while waiting for a bus to take you there, even in late December.

It was well worth enduring the bus journey for. It’s a shame there isn’t much here, in the way of environmental policy jobs.

LC^3T: Part I concluded

The video above should demonstrate why I normally leave the videography to my far more talented brother Mica. Still, I hope it will convey some sense of what it was like to cross Canada by Greyhound Bus, a few days before Christmas in 2009.

I hope everyone enjoys the holidays.

[Update: 13 January 2010] A video from the second half of the trip is now online.

LC^3T: Calgary – Vancouver

This last section is happening in what may be Greyhound’s oldest bus. The overhead storage space is too small for almost all bags, so there is zero leg room for everyone with carry-on bags piled everywhere.

Still, the end is in sight. One more long and nearly moonless night, and I will be in Vancouver. It is a shame there won’t be much of a mountain view from Revelstoke, due to darkness and bad weather. All my daylight hours were boreal forest or prairie views.

LC^3T: Regina

Regina has the nicest bus station I have seen on the trip so far. It has an enclosed area for the vehicles themselves, and a high-vaulted waiting area for passengers.

I had two seats to myself from Winnipeg to here, so I got some decent sleep for the first time on the trip. Good enough to dream and feel like some road vanished, at least.

The next leg is to Calgary. Soon, I will be decidedly in Western Canada.

LC^3T: Thunder Bay – Winnipeg

Batteries are drained: mental along with phone and music. I bought the wrong batteries for my iPod range extender, but may be able to correct the error when in Winnipeg.

I am meeting my cousin there, which should permit a shower, decent food, and mental refreshment.

I have been looking places up on Wikipedia as I pass through. You don’t learn much about them in a few minutes through a bus window. Bus stations, I can report, are highly uniform in content and appearance.

LC^3T: Sudbury – Thunder Bay

Most of this span will happen in darkness, with sunrise just a couple of hours from Thunder Bay.

So far, all the buses have been completely full, though nobody I have spoken to is going as far as I am. About a day from now, I will enter Manitoba for the first time.

The AAA power source for my iPod is working well, and I have finished more than 1/3 of a book.

Greyhound ticket to Vancouver booked

While it has been surprisingly difficult to acquire credible emissions figures for rail and bus travel, it does seem as though the bus is by far the least emissions-intensive way to travel long distances. It will also mean two more days in Vancouver, compared with taking the train. As such, I have booked two three-day journeys to and from Vancouver:

  • Ottawa, ON – 10:00am December 19th
  • North Bay, ON – 3:20pm
  • Sudbury, ON – 5:45pm
  • Sault Ste. Marie, ON – 11:55pm
  • White River, ON – 4:15am December 20th
  • Schreiber, ON – 6:40am
  • Thunder Bay, ON – 9:20am
  • Upsala, ON – 12:05pm
  • Dryden, ON – 1:45pm
  • Kenora, ON – 4:00pm
  • Winnipeg, MB – 6:50pm
  • Brandon, MB – 2:10am December 21st
  • Virden, MB – 3:35am
  • Whitewood, SK – 5:50am
  • Regina, SK – 7:20am
  • Swift Current, SK – 11:25am
  • Medicine Hat, AB – 1:45pm
  • Calgary, AB – 6:00pm
  • Golden, BC – 10:30pm
  • Revelstoke, BC – 11:40pm
  • Kamloops, BC – 2:35am December 22nd
  • Vancouver, BC – 8:30am December 22nd to 6:30am January 7th
  • Kamloops, BC – 11:35am January 7th
  • Revelstoke, BC – 3:25pm
  • Golden, BC – 6:30pm
  • Calgary, AB – 10:45pm
  • Medicine Hat, AB – 3:30am January 8th
  • Swift Current, SK – 7:20am
  • Regina, SK – 10:55am
  • Whitewood, SK – 2:00pm
  • Virden, MB – 3:35pm
  • Brandon, MB – 4:50pm
  • Winnipeg, MB – 8:30pm
  • Kenora, ON – 12:45am – January 9th
  • Dryden, ON – 2:45am
  • Thunder Bay, ON – 8:20am
  • Schreiber, ON – 11:45am
  • Sault Ste. Marie, ON – 7:10pm
  • Sudbury, ON – 11:50pm
  • Ottawa, ON – 7:05am – January 10th

The only long stopovers are 1:45 in Sudbury, 1:10 in Thunder Bay, and 4:40 in Winnipeg on the way out – 1:16 in Calgary and 1:45 in Winnipeg on the way back. This will be my first time ever in Manitoba and Saskatchewan.

The journey will take some preparation. I will need to bring most or all of the non-truck stop food I want to eat. I will need reading materials and lots of headlamp batteries. I will need a system to run my iPod off AAs, since there is no assurance of electrical outlets on the buses. Other necessities:

  • Excellent earplugs
  • Some sort of eye-covering mask
  • Changes of clothing
  • Hand sanitizer
  • Water bottles
  • Backup headphones?

I probably need other things I haven’t thought of yet (leave comments). There will be little point in bringing a laptop, since there isn’t enough space on a Greyhound to open my 14″ iMac. I will have to rely on my phone and digital camera memory cards.

This will be quite the epic journey, though the payoff of sixteen days in Vancouver is worth it.

[Update: 6 January 2009] A series of updates from the Low Carbon Cross Canada Trip (LC^3T) are online.